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Baltimore Magazine 55 BEST RESTAURANTS For our 55 best restaurants, excellence is in the details. Edited by Bianca Sienra February 2004
After a difficult time with some visa issues, chef/owner Erik Rochard finally reopened his highly successful French restaurant last year; formerly located in Laurel, it’s now in Columbia and already at least as popular as his old venue. This is a comfortable, modern space where ties and jackets are out of the question (unless they make you feel more comfortable) and the food is genuine French bistro. Start with a terrine of chevre a la betterave, roasted beets layered with perky goat cheese and sprinkled with a surprise of cumin seeds. Large, plump, perfectly cooked moules marinières in their own jus sport a delicious soupçon of white wine, rosemary, and curry. We adored a seasonal côte de porc Normande, the enormous hunk of pig drenched with mushrooms and cream and accompanied by noodles—just in case you’re still hungry. For dessert, the nougat vanilla ice cream blended with candied fruit and pistachios is a stunner.
